Accessible Alabama:
Sultry Southern Escape

sister, Lucy. When the original Lucy’s lease was lost, she built a new place that’s about six times the size of the old hangout. On the Thursday night we visited, a trio of middle-aged musicians played “Sweet Home Alabama,” “Mrs. Robinson,” and other familiar selections. The band’s name (we’re not making this up) is The Relics. They were good. Really good. They better be, because the music was so loud, we could only talk if we shouted. During the busy summer season, the restaurant serves as many as 3,000 people a day, but patrons don’t seem to mind the long lines. The blackened mahi mahi with a slice of key lime pie came in man-sized portions at a working man’s price. Here are several other Alabama destinations that are worth the drive.

Wheelchair-accessible condos are available at the secluded Beach Club near Gulf Shores.

by Barbara & Jim Twardowski

As we drive into Gulf Shores a real estate sign boldly declares, “Florida is Full.” The implication is that Alabama is not. Miles of sandy white beaches line the Alabama coastline, inviting visitors to relax and play.

Gulf Shores is on the southernmost tip of Alabama between Mobile and Pensacola, Fla. Airports are located in each of these cities and both are less than an hour’s drive to Gulf Shores. The 32 miles of beach are bordered by the brilliant blue waters of the Gulf of Mexico. The island is a favorite with families and ours has spent numerous vacations building sand castles, exploring forts and watching the wildlife.

On a recent trip we booked a wheelchair-accessible condo at the Beach Club. The resort is on Fort Morgan Peninsula — a secluded spot miles away from the typical strip centers and souvenir shops. Amenities include the clubhouse, five outdoor pools and one indoor pool, tennis courts, a full-service European spa, two restaurants, and ice cream and coffee shops. Guests use the resort’s private beach. Beach wheelchairs can be rented from Ike’s Beach Service for $30 a day or $150 for a week.

Getting close to nature is easy in Gulf Shores. Just down the road is the Bon Secour National Wildlife Refuge ( www.fws.gov/bonsecour). Compared to most national refuges, this 7,000- acre habitat is considered small. It’s home to the endangered Alabama beach mouse and nesting sea turtles. The one-mile Jeff Friend Trail is wheelchair accessible and provides impressive views of Little Lagoon.

Bird watching is a popular attraction in the area and crowds flock to the nearby Fort Morgan State Historic Site for bird-banding sessions held every April and October. The Hummer/Bird Study Group (HBSG), which organizes the event, gathers valuable information about the health, behavior and habitat of migratory birds, in addition to giving visitors the chance to touch, hold and release the birds. Visitors pay a fee to enter the park and everyone is encouraged to bring lawn chairs and binoculars. The Alabama Coastal Birding Trails wind through two counties; a brochure and maps can be found online at www. alabamacoastalbirdingtrail.com/trails.

As the sun began to set, we drove over to LuLu’s — an open-air restaurant at the foot of the Intercoastal Canal Bridge owned by Jimmy Buffet’s

Foley

Less than a half-hour drive from Gulf Shores is the town of Foley. You can spend the day shopping at the Tanger Outlet, which sells everything from socks to diamonds at name-brand stores such as Polo Ralph Lauren, Liz Claiborne, Coldwater Creek, Rockport and Gap. (Visit the company’s Web site for maps and coupons — www. tangeroutlet.com.) On a hot summer day, nothing tastes as wonderful as a treat from the old-time soda fountain at Stacey Rexall Drugs in downtown Foley. When it’s time to dine, don’t miss Lambert’s Café (The Only Home of the Throwed Rolls). Hot rolls are baked daily and tossed to the customers. Come with an appetite — the portions are huge. Every time we’ve gone to Lambert’s Café, there’s a wait, but it’s well worth it. Once you’re seated, the staff come by your table and serve “pass arounds” of macaroni and cheese, fried okra and potatoes.

Mobile

Just an hour’s drive from Gulf Shores is 300-year-old Mobile. The second-largest metropolitan area in the state has been revitalizing its downtown